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Advice on what to look for when selecting a gradual tanner.
Health and body conscious people who like the appearance of a year long tan are becoming increasingly aware of the damage caused by conventional methods of achieving it, (e.g. sunbathing, sunbeds). The market for fake tanning has existed for over 40 years. Although, the first tanning lotions had a reputation of turning users orange, now thankfully due to revolutionary development the tanning lotions of today can be more natural looking then the sun itself, and certainly less damaging. Self- tanning lotions are as a fast, effective, safer and more natural way to tan.
Firstly and most importantly prior to applying any product that contains tanning agents, EXFOLIATE! You must remove any surface dead skin cells to create a clean canvas on your skin for your tanning product.
When selecting a gradual tanner, it helps to know the percentage of DHA. (Dihydroxyacetone: a colourless derivative of sugar cane). The DHA darkens the skin by interacting with the amino acids in the dead surface cells found in it outermost layer causing it to darken naturally. The tan will then remain on the skin from between 5-9 days depending on which tanning method you decide on.
OK, now we know what DHA is... How do you judge the percentage?
Well a typical medium colour spray tan is around 8-9% DHA. This gives you that one week Spanish holiday looking tan.
A low percentage of DHA i.e. 1-2% will give a light golden glow that you can build up every day, this is especially good on “English rose” complexions. Make sure your product contains rich moisturizing ingredients like shea butter, coco butter, vitamin E and sunflower oil because DHA is naturally drying to the skin, and so tanning products need to have these intensely moisturising ingredients. Stay away form self tanners that contain, alcohol, or any ingredients that’s could potentially “dry out” the skin. Know your ingredients… a cosmetic ingredient book is essential for any one that wears any cosmetic!
If you chose a higher DHA gradual tanning product, say a 4% DHA, then the most you would want to apply this is twice in any 24 hours to obtain a gorgeously golden colour. You do not want to overload your skin with to much tanning products, the orange look is definitely not in fashion. From my experience any product over 11% can potentially have an orange look, especially on fair skin.
If you have used a 4% twice to achieve a colour of 8% or more then you need to use a lower percentage i.e. 1 % to protect the tan, and ensure your colour fades evenly, a bit like if you colour your hair., condition it, so if you colour your skin, protect and condition the skin and the tan with a low percentage DHA formula.
Never keep re applying tanning products for more then 7-9 days, by this point you will need to exfoliate and start your tanning cycle again.
Make sure after applying any tanning product you wash your hands, no brown palms please, it is a dead give away that you have been “fake tanning”. In regards to the face, only use a small amount of fake tan (you can always go darker with a bronzing powder), again nothing shouts out “fake tan” more then a face that is to dark!
The trick is to have naturally healthy looking tan, not an orange tan, definitely no brown palms and a “soft sun” glow to the face. Top Tip 1
Always exfoliate your client before tanning to remove any dead skins cells, body oils, perfume, body cream and anything the could act as a barrier between the skin and the tanning solution. BeauBronz has a spray on exfoliating product called Exfoliesse which contains organic aloe vera gel and fruit acids to prepare the skin for an even tanning application. If this is not available to you make sure your client exfoliates in the shower before coming to you for their treatment.
Top Tip 2
To help ensure your sunless tan fades evenly, use a daliy tan extender that contains DHA; a colourless dervative of sugar cane that has been FDA approved for more than 30 years. DHA darkens the skin by interacting with the amino acids in the dead surface cells found in the outermost layer of the skin causing it to darken. BeauBronz body cream contains 1 % DHA, to add a hint of tan with an organic aloe vers base to moisturise the skin.
Application Techniques FAQs
Is a spray tan from a booth as effective as one provided by a technician?
Spray guns do result in much more control in applying the spray tan than spray booths. This is because the tan technician has complete control on the amount of solution applied to the body and where the solution will be applied. Furthermore, some people want more solution in certain areas of their bodies, e.g. between the cleavage and more shading on the face to define cheekbones. Spray booths do not allow for that much control. Furthermore our research has shown that most people find that spray tans from booths leave their tan patchy and uneven especially on the legs.
Basically spray booths mean that people receiving that treatment lose that much needed personal contact. Leaving the treatment up to the customers, so they are the ones responsible for applying the barrier cream in the correct place, they are ones left to getting rid of the excess tan after treatment, leaving the client open to making many mistakes. Once you’re in the booth and the door is shut you have loads to think about such as timing and position, and unfortunately no one is there to ask for help. Disasters can occur. Anyone see that episode of Friends with Ross and the spray booth!?
What should a salon owner look for in a good spray tan solution?
A good quality tanning solution, firstly and most importantly MUST have a safety certificate issued by a “consultant on products to the cosmetic industry” according to the safety regulations 2004. Then secondly make sure you try before you buy, as many solutions have different fragrances and colours. BeauBronz only supplies “Natural Paraben Free products of the Highest Quality”. Beware of imitations!
Can you explain how a beauty therapist/spray tan technician can use a spray tan to contour and create a slimming effect on the client?
A simple way to think of shading is to think how you would use your “blusher” brush to contour areas like your cleavage and cheek bones. With BeauBronz products we suggest adding some darkening drops to the last 5ml of you tanning solution to create a slightly more darker solution and shade away!
Please email me your questions and I will endeavour to answer them asap.
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